Perhaps others are protected differently vs mine (thick clear resin coat). I have the TCM with F as the last letter in the model number. I looked up wiring diagrams but I’m a bit lost regarding how to find the source of the lost power. If the wiring is broken somewhere I have no idea how to find it because most of the wiring goes into nomans land deep under the parts. I checked the TCM fuse and AT main relay in the engine fuse box and they both were intact and working. Plus, pins 6 and 14 on the OSB2 read about 100 ohms, even though they are supposed to be 60. I then checked the wire going into that pin and it also had no voltage. I am confused because if the TCM were not working why is it not in limp mode all the time? I bought a multimeter and checked the female connector to the TCM and discovered that pin letter I (as in iodine) was not receiving battery voltage with the key on. The check engine light is on most of the time but AT light is off now. It’s been intermittently going into limp mode and then back into regular shifting mode. The warning lights came back after a day or so but then the AT light turned off. Instead of replacing the TCM immediately, I plugged it back in and waited. So then I resealed it before putting it back in the car. I had to peel off the resin to get to the board. I checked the TCM visually and could not find any obvious damaged components. It was making a loud clunk sound when shifting into reverse and was stuck in what seemed to be 3rd gear (limp mode). I have a 2010 Mazda 3 that recently showed a simultaneous check engine light and AT light.
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